BOILER KEEPS LOSING PRESSURE - WHY AND HOW TO FIX - Plumbing tipsAre you seeking central heating boiler repair work in Dublin? We have the finest heater installers and also specialists in the City.
When your residence heating boiler fails, you need it fixed fast. The issues is, just how do you discover a reputable plumbing company that will show up when they promise and also will bring out the repair work without ripping you off?
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the whole video and even at the end. So it'll be easy for you to subscribe and find any more information that you might need. We also share videos and photos of plumbing disasters that you guys send through to us at our Facebook and Twitter accounts. Anyway, I hope you enjoy the video and that it helps you out and remember everyone to hold tight. Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and advice. So you've been noticing
lately that the pressure gauge on the front of your boiler that looks very similar to some of the pressure gauges that I've got going on behind me at the moment has been dropping down. Now if it goes anywhere below kind of half a bar, then you know that you've got a problem and obviously if it's constantly going down all the time or that reckedly you're topping it up using a filling loop
like the ones that we've got going on behind us at the moment, then you'll know that you've definitely got a problem. Now there's a few things that can cause this and we're just gonna go through them step by step and also give you a quick idea about how you can maybe fix the problem. I've seen a few other videos on YouTube about this and I don't really feel like they're covering
very well. So we're gonna try and do that now for you and I hope you enjoy the video. So let's go. You may be aware that we've already done videos on how pressurized heating systems work and it's quite important to know the basics of how they work when it comes to finding out why you've got a problem with pressure drop. The main things to think about are that when cold water is heated
up inside a boiler and inside a heating system, the cold water atoms and molecules start to move and get very, very excited and because of that, they expand. They usually on an unpressurized system, you have a tank in the loft with an expansion pipe that goes up there and that allows the water to expand up and down without there being a problem. On a pressurized system, instead of having the expansion
pipe, you have what's called an expansion vessel. How they work is very simple. It's very difficult to compress water and so therefore you have an expansion vessel with a rubber diaphragm and on one side of the diaphragm you have compressed air that's usually compressed to one or one and a half bar and on the other side you have your heating system water. So as that water heats up and expands, it gets more
and more happy, it can expand into the easily compressed air without letting air into the heating system because there's a rubber diaphragm in the way. So make sure that your heating system is nice and full of water at all times, you have a filling loop that fills up the cold water from the cold water main system and make sure that everything's okay. It's worth noting as well that the filling loop is
not in all the time, okay. When you filled up the system, when you've done anything, you should turn off both the valves at each size and remove the filling loop braided hose and just hang that behind the pipe. The main reason we do that is because if you've got a problem with one of the valves, you could overpressurize the heating system and actually pressurize the whole heating system up to main's
pressure. So now you've got a basic idea about how a pressurized heating system works. Let's look at problem number one that could cause a pressure drop. Firstly and most obviously of all, you could have a leak on your heating system somewhere. When it comes to finding leaks, the best thing to do is pop around all the radiator valves for a start and just make sure there's no leaks on them. Make sure you
lift up the heads as well to make sure that there's no weep on top of the valves. Make sure that the compression fittings on each side of the radiator valves are nice and tight and there's no water anywhere. Just go around, run around with your hands and make sure that you've got no leaks there at all. That's number one on the list. Try and stop the leaks. If you find that you
can't find any leaks anywhere, always look out for sort of dark brown patches on the ceiling. They can indicate leaks. After that, you're into the gnarly world of pulling up floorboards and having a look under the floor. Things like that can get pretty horrible. So that's number one. You might actually have a leak on your heating system. Number two, most modern combi boilers have what's called automatic air vents on them. Now they're great
for when it comes to venting a system out. Everything gets vented automatically and it works brilliantly. But they can cause problems if the heating system hasn't got an adequate amount of inhibitor in it or if the pump setting is set too high for the speed. Let's go through both of those quickly now. What an inhibitor does is stops the water from reacting with the inside of the radiators and the inside of
the components of the heating system itself. If that's not in there, you've got normal water going up against the insides of a radiator and causing horrible things to happen. Many, many months ago I started an experiment with two jars just like this, one with inhibitor in it and one with just water in it and then popped about 10 nails in each and I think you can see the difference. If I just pop
these down so you can have a closer look at them, you can see the different state in the nails and if inhibitor is not inside your radiators, that's exactly what's gonna happen to the inside. Now, another byproduct of this is not just sludge and rust that goes around and stops a heating system from working properly, it's also hydrogen and other gases. What happens is the hydrogen can work its way around to
an automatic air vent and the automatic air vent's just doing it's job, it's just sitting there having a nice chilled out day, a little bit of gas comes along and it lets it out quite happily, but what happens then is the pressure drops down on your boiler. So make sure that you've got a nice amount of inhibitor in your heating system. We've done a video about how to do that and that'll
be appearing in the card right now. The next thing to worry about is the pump speed. Now the problem you have is if the pump speed is set too high and the water is not getting away from the pump quick enough, it can do a thing called cavitation, which is what happens where the pump impellers themselves split the water and air up and then you again create hydrogen. So turn your
pump speed down, make sure you've got an adequate flow around the holder system and that should stop that from happening. Now obviously the hydrogen has to escape somewhere and guess what, it goes up to that naughty little automatic air vent again and drops the pressure in the system. So there are the other things you'd look at if you've got a problem with a pressure drop on your pressurized system. The last two
things to look at and unfortunately the most common are problems with the expansion vessel and also problems with your pressure relief valve. Let's have a look at the expansion vessel first. Like we described earlier on, the expansion vessel allows the hot water to have somewhere to expand to without pressurizing the heating system anywhere above what is a safe limit. Now, if the rubber diaphragm ruptures and let's face it, it is actually
a moving part, then water will go into that, the air will get into the heating system and get taken out of the automatic air vent and basically what you'll end up with is an area of no expansion. Now, you'll probably think that's gonna make the system pressure go up. That is kind of true, but only for a little while. What'll happen is is the system pressure will go up and up and up
and actually force the pressure relief valve to open. The way to know that if you've got a problem with your expansion vessel is to find what looks like a bike pump connector on the top of it or on the side, press that and unfortunately you're probably gonna release all the air out, but if water starts to come out, then that's a bad thing, okay, and you're gonna need to put
a new expansion vessel on. If you don't find there's any water come out, it might've just lost its charge through that straighter valve and you can get a bicycle pump and repressurize it and then use a pressure gauge to make sure that it's pumped up to one or one and a half bar. Another thing I'd also say is a lot of combi boilers only have an expansion vessel that accounts for the
expansion of the boiler itself and doesn't account for the expansion of the radiators. I always say it's a great idea if your plumber's in and he's putting a new boiler in, ask him to whacker a moat expansion vessel somewhere else on the heating system, usually in the airing cupboard and then you'll halve the risk of there being any problem with the expansion vessel or the pressure relief valve 'cause you've got so
much more expansion space. Pressure relief valves are very simple. All they are is a rubber valve with a certain set spring on the back of the valve. When the water gets up to a certain pressure, the pressure pushes on that spring and then dumps the water at a safe location outside. They usually run with a little 15 mil copper pipe that sticks out the back wall of the boiler and usually the
outlet is behind a hedge or something so you can never see them running or dripping and let's face it, most homeowners aren't gonna be looking for that anyway. So if you've got a problem with the expansion vessel, the pressure is gonna go up so much and it's gonna start dumping out the pressure relief valve and then your pressure drop will happen that way. Now a problem you can specifically get with
the pressure relief valve is again that it is a moving part. The fact that you've got a spring on the back of the valve will mean that it is a moving part and it'll get weaker and weaker over time and eventually 50% of pressure relief valves will fail after about 10 years and what happens is they'll start to slowly drip out and you'll slowly notice the effect if you've got a leak
on the system, but of course the pressure relief valve's piped up to dump that little drip outside where you're not looking. So a good idea is to just pop outside, find that little 15 mil pipe and just run your finger under that and see if that's where. If it is, then you've probably got a problem with the pressure relief valve and you'll need to get a plumber out to replace it. So
there we go. I hope this video's given you a better idea about the problems you can have when it comes to your pressurized heating system and why you're getting a pressure drop. There are a few reasons. Let's face it, the most common are the expansion vessel, the pressure relief pipe, or obviously a leak on your system. One thing I would say, it's always a good idea just to top of the inhibitor in
the heating system if you're not sure anyway and periodically ask your plumber to come out and just do a nice little health check on it, drain the whole heating system out, fill it all up again, pop a couple of tubs of inhibitor in there and your system should be nice and happy. Also at the same time, if you haven't got one, ask them to bang a magnetic filter on the return to
the boiler and you're really halving any of the problems you might have just through the running of the heating system. If you need any more help or any more information, pop over to our website, Facebook, Twitter, give us a subscribe. Mr. G, my cat will be over there. He loves to be out that place. Anyway, I hope you've enjoyed this video. I do hope you subscribe and remember everyone, once you've got all
that sorted out and you've figured out why you've got this pressure drop going on, to hold tight. See you later everyone, buh bye. Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and advice.
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